Very nice looking and great value, with IMPORTANT but non/fatal flaws
My review addresses the quality of construction, and how to remedy the flaws.
I would not install this in a rental property; get a metal frame bunk bed instead. OK at home or a vacation home.
This is made from New Zealand pine. A good solid wood with few cosmetic flaws. The wood is brittle, which contributes to the structural failures described by reviewers. Very nice finish but with some odor that takes a few weeks to dissipate. It is NOT toxic, as claimed by some reviewers.
I purchased the full over full, with twin trundle.
First, the assembly takes a good amount of time, 6/8 hours minimum to do a good job, without the modifications described below.
Second, the assembled bunks were very solid without any play (unlike other reviewers). You MUST fully and firmly screw in the hardware to achieve the rigidity. The head of the hex head screws sits below the level of wood. Some fasteners required quite a bit of torque to fully engage, ultimately twisting the metal of the supplied hex/wrench. Be meticulous, but be sure to not over/tighten.
The trundle construction quality is crap. Far weaker construction with inferior doweled joints in comparison to the bunk.
Now about the flaws. Reviewers describe 2 major failure points:
1. Fracture of the slats under the mattress.
2. Fracture of the longitudinal frame rail across the lower bunk.
Here is how I addressed these failure points:
1. I added 6 1x4 tight knot pine slats between the supplied slats. Add these before screwing down the supplied slats. I think 1x3 would be fine or preferable, but my lumber yard doesnt stock this dimension. I stapled the slats to the strap interconnecting the supplied straps, but did not screw them to the side rails to allow a bit of flexion. This looks and feels REALLY solid.
2. I added to the longitudinal front side frame rail a zinc plated steel flat plate 1 wide, 1/8 thick, 72 long purchased at Lowes. I didnt add this to the back side rail since the weight causing the failure will be on the front side. Be sure to leave a gap between the slats and the frame rail to accommodate insertion of the flat plate. Attach to the side rails with 12 round head wood screws, 10, 3/4 long. Drill 7/32 holes in the steel flat plate, 1/8 in the wood rail. Prior to attaching the flat plate, the side rail had a subtle but real deflection with my weight; I can understand why this would fail. After attachment of the flat plate, I could detect zero deflection, solid as a rock.
3. The trundle is hopeless. I glued the dowels and added slats to the mattress support. If it lasts a year Ill be thrilled. I am very satisfied
Very nice looking and great value, with IMPORTANT but non/fatal flaws
My review addresses the quality of construction, and how to remedy the flaws. I would not install this in a rental property; get a metal frame bunk bed instead. OK at home or a vacation home. This is made from New Zealand pine. A good solid wood with few cosmetic flaws. The wood is brittle, which contributes to the structural failures described by reviewers. Very nice finish but with some odor that takes a few weeks to dissipate. It is NOT toxic, as claimed by some reviewers. I purchased the full over full, with twin trundle. First, the assembly takes a good amount of time, 6/8 hours minimum to do a good job, without the modifications described below. Second, the assembled bunks were very solid without any play (unlike other reviewers). You MUST fully and firmly screw in the hardware to achieve the rigidity. The head of the hex head screws sits below the level of wood. Some fasteners required quite a bit of torque to fully engage, ultimately twisting the metal of the supplied hex/wrench. Be meticulous, but be sure to not over/tighten. The trundle construction quality is crap. Far weaker construction with inferior doweled joints in comparison to the bunk. Now about the flaws. Reviewers describe 2 major failure points: 1. Fracture of the slats under the mattress. 2. Fracture of the longitudinal frame rail across the lower bunk. Here is how I addressed these failure points: 1. I added 6 1x4 tight knot pine slats between the supplied slats. Add these before screwing down the supplied slats. I think 1x3 would be fine or preferable, but my lumber yard doesnt stock this dimension. I stapled the slats to the strap interconnecting the supplied straps, but did not screw them to the side rails to allow a bit of flexion. This looks and feels REALLY solid. 2. I added to the longitudinal front side frame rail a zinc plated steel flat plate 1 wide, 1/8 thick, 72 long purchased at Lowes. I didnt add this to the back side rail since the weight causing the failure will be on the front side. Be sure to leave a gap between the slats and the frame rail to accommodate insertion of the flat plate. Attach to the side rails with 12 round head wood screws, 10, 3/4 long. Drill 7/32 holes in the steel flat plate, 1/8 in the wood rail. Prior to attaching the flat plate, the side rail had a subtle but real deflection with my weight; I can understand why this would fail. After attachment of the flat plate, I could detect zero deflection, solid as a rock. 3. The trundle is hopeless. I glued the dowels and added slats to the mattress support. If it lasts a year Ill be thrilled. I am very satisfied